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More text on myco-hat
(Lucy project (unfinished draft)) |
(More text on myco-hat) |
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Project by Lucy Hale | Project by Lucy Hale | ||
My planned outcome for this project was quite a whimsical one, to create a mushroom-shaped hat out of tinder mushroom mycelium after . | My planned outcome for this project was quite a whimsical one, to create a mushroom-shaped hat out of tinder mushroom mycelium after seeing ‘fairy cosplayers’ online wearing mushroom shaped hats made of polystyrene, silicone or thick fabric. I believed that emulating this idea using actual mushroom mycelium would make for a more environmentally friendly, unique and realistic approach to creating a fun mushroom hat design.. | ||
I began by planning the overall shape and method of creating the necessary mould for the structure. I decided to use some rather unconventional objects to create the mould such as a beach ball, bowl and papier-mâché in order to have a more rough, organic quality in the final outcome. | I began by planning the overall shape and method of creating the necessary mould for the structure. I decided to use some rather unconventional objects to create the mould such as a beach ball, bowl and papier-mâché in order to have a more rough, organic quality in the final outcome. | ||
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Step 1. Creating the mould | Step 1. Creating the mould | ||
The mould for the mushroom hat was made by creating a large semi-circular negative using a beach ball and a smaller head-space made by a small plastic mixing bowl bent to the shape of the average head. | The mould for the mushroom hat was made by creating a large semi-circular negative using a beach ball and a smaller head-space made by a small plastic mixing bowl bent to the shape of the average head. | ||
These components were then covered in three layers of papier-mâché using newspaper, tissue paper, water and PVA glue. | These components were then covered in three layers of papier-mâché using newspaper, tissue paper, water and PVA glue. | ||
These were then left to dry for 48 hours in which time the Mycelium bags (outlined in step 3 of the | These were then left to dry for 48 hours in which time the Mycelium bags (outlined in step 3 of the Myco-Tetris project) had fully cultivated. | ||
Once the moulds had dried, plastic wrap and duct tape was applied to the contact surfaces to ensure the mould was water proof and would have no direct contact with the Mycelium which would consume the paper elements. | Once the moulds had dried, plastic wrap and duct tape was applied to the contact surfaces to ensure the mould was water proof and would have no direct contact with the Mycelium which would consume the paper elements. | ||
Step 2. Infilling the mould | Step 2. Infilling the mould | ||
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Ensuring density was maintained by pushing the mycelium as deep as possible throughout, I then began to fill in the sides between the inner head-space negative and the large overall mould until the mycelium reached the top | Ensuring density was maintained by pushing the mycelium as deep as possible throughout, I then began to fill in the sides between the inner head-space negative and the large overall mould until the mycelium reached the top | ||
At this point, plastic wrap was applied to the open top to seal in the mycelium, with a small hole pierced to allow a small amount of airflow. This was kept taut and secure by more duct tape. | At this point, plastic wrap was applied to the open top to seal in the mycelium, with a small hole pierced to allow a small amount of airflow. This was kept taut and secure by more duct tape. | ||
Step 3. Growth Stage | Step 3. Growth Stage | ||
The filled mould is then placed in a large airtight box and left to propagate for a week to fill the shape effectively. | |||
After this week, the mycelium shape is removed from the mould and patted dry with a paper towel. The box is also cleaned and disinfected with alcohol and also dried with paper towels. | |||
The now-free mycelium shape is then placed back into the box in a location away from direct sunlight* to develop further for a week in order to grow a strong surface layer of mycelium. | |||
After this week, it is then flipped and replaced in order to get equal growth all over and left to propagate for another week. | |||
At this point the mycelium is fully grown and ready to be dried. | |||
''*during this process, the mycelium unfortunately experienced some sunlight due to its placement which I believe contributed to its distress and subsequent browning. When doing this again, keeping the box in a dark but slightly warm environment would be most preferable to retain the white exterior.'' | |||
Step 4: Drying the mycelium | |||
I experimented with various temperatures and durations while drying the myco-hat. I ultimately found that ‘baking’ it in the oven at 80-90 degrees for an hour is most effective. This is followed by a three hour cooling period before repeating the process again. | |||
I did this 5 times over two days and am now left with a completely dehydrated, lightweight hat that has experienced no burning or shrinking. | |||
The result. | |||
Ultimately I am very happy and proud of what I have created and I am seriously considering setting uop a small mycelium lab in my home to continue experimenting and also pitching the idea of mycelium workshops back in my home university. The mycelium hat has gone down a storm among my friends, family and professors and people are always shocked to hear that it is made of real mushroom mycelium. It’s already sat upon many people’s heads and I’ve had requests to make more and sell them! | |||
In the past few days, I made the decision to paint on some white spots with acrylic paint to emulate a toadstool and I believe this adds to its charm even more! My next plan for the project is to maybe create a cylindrical stand to hold the hat made out of wood which would make the overall structure resemble a whole mushroom, but this is something I will work on once I return to my home country. | |||